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How To Clean Out Egr System Ford Focus

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Post subject: EGR removal and clean

Post Posted: Mon Oct 08, 2007 10:56 am

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i got the P0401 code. i desire to remove and clean the EGR. have already done the FCV when information technology was sticking closed preventing restarts when engine was warm. The FCV was easy due to location, but the EGR is in a little deeper :( Can anyone offer advice on the chore at hand??

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Post Posted: Mon Oct 08, 2007 11:19 am


Joined: Tue Sep eighteen, 2007 vii:21 pm
Posts: 3092
Location: Texas

Hither'due south some instructions I copied from a thread a couple weeks ago - don't retrieve who it was, but if information technology works for you, kudos to the carpenter -

R&R THE EGR VALVE
Ok....Here goes....
Go on in mind, I don't take a 05 KJ FS Mannie (I'm savin' upwards...) so I may non exist able to call certain items by their correct names but I will do my all-time to draw them.
1. Disconnect and remove the battery.
2. Disconnect the wires and remove the power distribution center off of the battery tray. There are iii snap connectors to release and it lifts off.
3. Remove the battery tray. If I remember there were three bolts.
4. Remove the CAC hose from the intercooler to the flow control valve (FCV) and disconnect the electrical connection to the FCV.
v. Remove the electrical connections to the fuel filter. Remove the banjo bolts holding the fuel lines to the filter head. DON'T lose the copper washers on each side of the banjo fittings. Remove the filter head/2 nuts and remove the filter assembly mounting bracket/3 nuts.
6. You'll run into a steel tube with V-groove band clamp mounted to the FCV and a two commodities plate mounted to the EGR. Remove information technology. Removed the wire subclass just to save my duke when removing the tube from the EGR.
seven. There are 4 allen caput cap screws holding on the CAC hose snorkle and the FCV to the intake mannie remove them. There is a gasket I believe on the snorkle and a large O band on the FCV or vice versa. Both are reusable. The gasket volition exist stuck on and the O band fits in a groove.
8. With some acrobatic skills y'all'll be able to see the EGR and the cooling housing. You'll observe another steel tube coming from the other side effectually the back of the engine. Remove the ii bolts into the EGR. No need to remove the tube the EGR volition slide out.
9. The EGR has 2 small coolant lines attached to it at the mid point. Now, I didn't drain any coolant from the organization. I cut off the squeeze-on clamps (Careful not to nick the hoses and replaced with 2 practiced stainless steel clamps). Had a couple of plugs (about iii/8" dia) in hand and pulled off the hoses and plugged them. Be QUICK.....
10. Remove EGR. 4 bolts vertical to the floor. THERE is a steel gasket between the EGR and the cooling bedchamber mounting don't lose it or damage information technology.
You'll have to pull off various wire mounts only to shift them around but all pop out hands.
When I reassembled I used a little anti-sieze compound on all the fasteners just in instance I'll be doing this again.
Besides on the "Princess'southward" oiler there was another top engine (probably for sound) encompass below the dressy cover. I cut the drivers half of that in half (with it full length and the wire bundles on top of it information technology took a lot of praying and cussing which canceled out the praying.... a bad circle) to remove easily so I tin check and make clean the heave sensor whe required.
Keep in mind when reassembling not to over tighten...
Refill the coolant tank accordingly.
Prime number the fuel sytem. Put fire to'her.
Cheque for leaks and you're adept to get.
How'southward that....for a Carpenter

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Post Posted: Mon Oct 08, 2007 xi:30 am

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cheers gmctd! i was wondering if the EGR could exist removed without showtime removing the FCV. practice yous think removing the batt and tray is necessary?

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Post Posted: Mon Oct 08, 2007 xi:51 am


Joined: Tue Sep 18, 2007 7:21 pm
Posts: 3092
Location: Texas

Non much available real estate in in that location, air - certain beats removing the master cylinder and restriction booster, tho, correct?

Yous've already been in in that location for the AFC\FCV\TV job - how does it look to you - any easier path?

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'05 CRD Limited
Pricol EGT, Heave
GDE Hot 'xi; EDGE Trail switched
SEGR; Provent; Magnaflow;
Suncoast T\C, Transgo Tow'northward'Go switch;
Cummins LP module, Fleetguard filter, Filterminder
2.5" Daystar f, OME r; Ranchos; K80767'due south, Al'southward lifted uppers
Rubicons, 2.55 Goodyears
Four in a row actually makes information technology become

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Post Posted: Mon Oct 08, 2007 eleven:54 am


Joined: Sat Apr fifteen, 2006 12:56 pm
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Location: Spokane, WA

DDom wrote:

thank you gmctd! i was wondering if the EGR could be removed without first removing the FCV. do you think removing the batt and tray is necessary?

Some demand more room to piece of work than others. I think y'all need to remove the FCV to become to the EGR simply if you can practice that without removing the battery go for it. I call back the aforementioned could be said of the fuel filter housing. It also seems to me that the EGR is more accessible from below when laying under there and then peradventure that is a better approach bending for those who accept tried it. I HAVE Not so take my advice with a big not of caution. :wink:

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'06 CRD Limited, Lt. Khaki, MOPAR Slush Mats/Skids, DrawTite Forepart Hitch, Mag Lite, Yakima Bars, Thule Bike Rack, Fumoto, ORM, 245/70 Revo 2

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Post Posted: Mon Oct 08, 2007 12:05 pm

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yea i was thinkin' the FCV definitely OUT. probably the cast elbow to the intake also, just the filter peradventure. and the batt and tray NOT. as for working under...unless you got orangutan arms, that'southward tough.

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Post Posted: Mon Oct 08, 2007 12:17 pm


Joined: Tue January 10, 2006 ix:31 pm
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Location: Camano Island, Washington

I'm thinking if yous can become it on a lift, y'all can go it from underneath because it is just over the starter.

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Post Posted: Monday Oct 08, 2007 12:22 pm


Joined: Tue Jan x, 2006 nine:31 pm
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DDom wrote:

yea i was thinkin' the FCV definitely OUT. probably the bandage elbow to the intake also, but the filter maybe. and the batt and tray Non. as for working under...unless you got orangutan arms, that'due south tough.

Oh that's funny, :-)r I'm able to change the fuel filter with my one good arm from underneath, I'one thousand sure others can do more than with two good arms.

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Post Posted: Monday Oct 08, 2007 12:27 pm

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:lol: 'Clyde' would be helpful at times! but then again he would probably tear-upwards more long term :P i'1000 thinking those lifts in the Northern itemize look pretty sweeet right about at present

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Post Posted: Mon Oct 08, 2007 2:31 pm

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I tried to access the egr from beneath....It would exist easy if y'all could do everything with i hand, like removing the coolant lines and plugging them, etc. I couldn't do information technology, 'cause ALL I could go in there, was i hand....Maybe from a lift....But laying on my back...Couldn't do it.
Practiced Dark and Good Luck...
The Carpenter :wink:

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Post Posted: Mon Oct 08, 2007 2:43 pm


Joined: Tue Jan x, 2006 9:31 pm
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Location: Camano Island, Washington

This is the instruction from the service manual. These teaching is more than achievable from underneath, Please note information technology says to remove the EGR valve and cooler associates from the vehicle. I have pictures from the service manual merely I don't matter it will be big plenty posting online.

REMOVAL
ane. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Remove engine cover.
iii. Bleed cooling system.
4. Disconnect the electrical connector at EGR valve.
five. Disconnect coolant hoses at EGR valve (1) and
cooler (5).
half dozen. Disconnect tube at the EGR valve housing.
seven. Remove EGR valve housing to engine block fastener.
8. Remove EGR valve and cooler assembly from
vehicle.
9. Remove EGR valve to cooler retaining bolts and
separate EGR valve from cooler.

Image

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Post Posted: Mon Oct 08, 2007 3:23 pm


Joined: Tue Sep xviii, 2007 7:21 pm
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Location: Texas

Ok - that makes information technology much simpler, then -

- leave the bombardment\associated stuff and the filter\associated stuff in at that place, and have a vii' four-postal service elevator installed in your driveway

- even simpler, excavate a 10' x 5' x 5'deep trench in the center of your driveway, crawl in and have the significant other drive the Jeep over you

:lol:

_________________
'05 CRD Limited
Pricol EGT, Boost
GDE Hot '11; EDGE Trail switched
SEGR; Provent; Magnaflow;
Suncoast T\C, Transgo Tow'n'Get switch;
Cummins LP module, Fleetguard filter, Filterminder
ii.5" Daystar f, OME r; Ranchos; K80767's, Al'southward lifted uppers
Rubicons, two.55 Goodyears
Four in a row really makes it go

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Post Posted: Mon Oct 08, 2007 iii:37 pm


Joined: Tue Apr 03, 2007 2:07 am
Posts: 6217
Location: Colorado Baby!

BlackLibertyCRD wrote:

This is the instruction from the service manual. These instruction is more than doable from underneath, Please annotation it says to remove the EGR valve and libation assembly from the vehicle. I have pictures from the service manual but I don't affair it will exist big enough posting online.

REMOVAL
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Remove engine cover.
iii. Bleed cooling system.
iv. Disconnect the electrical connector at EGR valve.
5. Disconnect coolant hoses at EGR valve (1) and
libation (five).
six. Disconnect tube at the EGR valve housing.
7. Remove EGR valve housing to engine block fastener.
8. Remove EGR valve and cooler associates from
vehicle.
9. Remove EGR valve to cooler retaining bolts and
separate EGR valve from libation.

Image

For anyone that wants to impress that specific page:

http://colorado4wheel.com/manuals/Jeep/ ... _P6040.pdf

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Post Posted: Monday October 08, 2007 half dozen:13 pm


Joined: Tue Jan 10, 2006 9:31 pm
Posts: 1406
Location: Camano Island, Washington

gmctd wrote:

Ok - that makes it much simpler, then -

- leave the battery\associated stuff and the filter\associated stuff in at that place, and have a 7' 4-post elevator installed in your driveway

- even simpler, excavate a 10' 10 5' x 5'deep trench in the heart of your driveway, clamber in and take the meaning other bulldoze the Jeep over yous

:lol:

Simply get a piece of paper-thin and slid right under the jeep like the skilful old days. Don't even need a jack if your skinny enough. :P

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Post Posted: Monday Oct 08, 2007 six:48 pm


Joined: Saturday Apr fifteen, 2006 12:56 pm
Posts: 1830
Location: Spokane, WA

BlackLibertyCRD wrote:

gmctd wrote:

Ok - that makes it much simpler, then -

- leave the battery\associated stuff and the filter\associated stuff in there, and have a 7' four-postal service elevator installed in your driveway

- even simpler, excavate a 10' x five' 10 5'deep trench in the middle of your driveway, crawl in and have the pregnant other drive the Jeep over y'all

:lol:

Merely go a piece of cardboard and slid correct under the jeep like the good old days. Don't fifty-fifty need a jack if your skinny enough. :P

I'yard not skinny enough but you know a CRD in function time 4WD and low volition simply climb right upwards on top of a couple of 6x6 blocks left over from the construction of a pole building. :lol:

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'06 CRD Limited, Lt. Khaki, MOPAR Slush Mats/Skids, DrawTite Front Hitch, Magazine Low-cal, Yakima Bars, Thule Bike Rack, Fumoto, ORM, 245/70 Revo 2

Wish list: Elevator, Boulder Bars, Something Bigger in the Front and Back, More Lights

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Post Posted: Mon Oct 08, 2007 half dozen:49 pm


Joined: Tue Sep 18, 2007 7:21 pm
Posts: 3092
Location: Texas

Aye - merely I been wantin' a 7' 4-poster and a trench for years.......................... :)

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'05 CRD Express
Pricol EGT, Boost
GDE Hot '11; Border Trail switched
SEGR; Provent; Magnaflow;
Suncoast T\C, Transgo Tow'n'Become switch;
Cummins LP module, Fleetguard filter, Filterminder
two.5" Daystar f, OME r; Ranchos; K80767's, Al'south lifted uppers
Rubicons, two.55 Goodyears
4 in a row actually makes it go

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Post Posted: Mon Oct 08, 2007 8:42 pm

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Well I encounter you guys have entertained yourselves while I've been busy removing the EGR. 8) While I was skinny plenty, I didn't recollect a slice of cardboard or a lift or a trench were entirely necessary...so I went with the old-fashioned 'winging it' method. I separated the solenoid from the valve body and have the valve torso soaking. I'll exist reassembling and reinstalling tomorrow. Wish me luck that P0401 is never more!!

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Post Posted: Mon Oct 08, 2007 ix:01 pm


Joined: Tue Sep xviii, 2007 7:21 pm
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Location: Texas

Hey - what're friends for, eh? At least nosotros weren't hangin' around, gettin' in your way...........................

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'05 CRD Limited
Pricol EGT, Boost
GDE Hot '11; EDGE Trail switched
SEGR; Provent; Magnaflow;
Suncoast T\C, Transgo Tow'n'Go switch;
Cummins LP module, Fleetguard filter, Filterminder
2.v" Daystar f, OME r; Ranchos; K80767's, Al's lifted uppers
Rubicons, 2.55 Goodyears
Four in a row really makes it get

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Post Posted: Mon October 08, 2007 9:24 pm


Joined: Tue Jan 10, 2006 nine:31 pm
Posts: 1406
Location: Camano Island, Washington

Glad nosotros were able to help!

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K&N, Samco Hoses, Michelin 245/70-xvi LTX A/T2, Fumoto F-102, V-Forcefulness Muffler, Mopar, Hitch, Trailer Wiring, Skid Plates, Slush Mats, Rear Shelf, Predator Stage 1, Transgo, ORM & CodeReader, Facet 40109 Pump
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Post Posted: Wed October 10, 2007 11:sixteen am

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well my reinstall went okay except for the coolant hoses not wanting to seat (keep from spinning) properly with those OEM spring clamps :x so I took a pace back and decided to use old stand up bys' , worm gear styles and a dab of gasket adhesive. startup went great and no leaks! just the CEL wouldn't auto extinquish, soo off to the parts house for a scantool and clearing. had multiple starts since and all is good so far. needless to say, the soot is not a good thing for these intakes and associated parts.

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